Ready to go from idea to first flight ? You’re in the right place. This Revomania guide — restored and translated — walks you step by step from paper templates to a finished sail: hot-cutting, panel assembly, leading edge, grommets, then bridle, end caps/connectors, bungees and handles. Goal: a “revo” that’s clean, strong and reliable on your very first build.
Behind the scenes: we dug up the original pages, cleaned them up, re-laid them out, translated, and brought back the videos — including dozens of restored animations. Huge thanks to Juan Faura for these timeless resources! If you haven’t chosen your model yet, start with the “revo” plans (1.5, 1, 2, mini, indoor) to pick your size and note the measurements.
Quick links
- Need dimensions and diagrams? → “Revo” Plans
- Ready for first flights and figures? → Learn to Fly & STACK Figures
- Project context & credits? → Revomania (main page)
Showing you how to build
I’ve tried to explain, as simply as possible, how I build a “Revolution”-type quad-line kite.
Whichever model you choose, the build is the same as long as you follow the corresponding measurements.
My only goal is to show you how I make my own revo kites in the simplest and most economical way possible; with time and experience, you’ll build them your own way.
Anatomy of a “revo”
How to build a “revo”
Building the sail
Step 1: Prepare the templates
On paper, draw the corresponding outer dimensions and design the panel layout you want in order to make your templates.
Once cut, transfer them onto the ripstop spinnaker cloth.
REMEMBER: leave a 2 cm seam allowance all around so you can fold a hem and sew.
Step 2: Cut the panels
Cut the ripstop with a hot cutter (soldering iron/hot knife) to prevent fraying.
Prepare the Dacron reinforcements for the sail’s triangle tips and the trailing edge.
Step 3: Assemble and sew the panels
First, zig-zag stitch all the inner panels.
Then stitch the full sail together. At the triangle tips and along the trailing edge, insert the Dacron pieces prepared in step 2.
Step 4: Prepare the leading-edge pieces
Step 5: Assemble the leading edge and reinforcements
Cut a strip of Dacron and a strip of mesh (screen) to the width required by the model you’re building.
Specialty kite shops usually carry the right widths.
Using pins, stack and hold sail + mesh + Dacron + leading-edge reinforcements, then zig-zag the whole sandwich in a single pass.
With the hot cutter, trim the excess Dacron at the tips.
Step 6: Punch the holes
Use the hot tool again and burn 4 mm holes for the end-cap bungees.
Set the grommets in the holes you just made — and your “revo” sail is ready.
Building the bridle
Long bridle (horizontal)
The method for the long bridle is the same regardless of model; what changes, of course, are the distances between knots.
Start with the left side and, once finished, use it as the template for the right side.
NOTE: it’s crucial to make the bridles accurately; the kite’s behavior depends on it.
Short bridles (vertical)
The method for the short bridles is also the same whatever the model; only the distances between knots change.
You need two perfectly identical bridles. Once the first one is done, use it as the guide to make the second.
NOTE: it’s crucial to make the bridles accurately; the kite’s behavior depends on it.
Center bridle
Suitable for any “revo” model you build.
Cut the line to length, fold it in half, and tie it to the loop at the center of the long bridle with a square knot.
Assemble the bridles
Attach the bridles to the sail
Making the end caps (connectors)
With a utility knife, cut 4 cm of rubber/silicone tube with an inner diameter that matches your spar.
At 1 cm from the edge, drill perpendicular holes through which the bridles and bungees will pass later.
Fitting the bungees
Cut six bungee pieces of about 15 cm each.
On the outer connectors, pass the bungee through the connector hole, then through the grommets, and simply tie a knot at each end big enough that it won’t slip back through the grommet.
On the inner connectors, pass the bungee through the connector hole and feed one strand through the grommet. On the back of the kite, tie a very secure knot with the two strands.
Making the handles
Depending on the handle style you want, cut and bend a piece of aluminum tube.
Then drill a small 3 mm hole.
Slide on the grip, which can be rubber, silicone, foam, or any material that feels slightly grippy in hand.
Through the hole in the aluminum, thread a ~20 cm piece of line and tie a knot at the end large enough not to slip back through. Add rubber end plugs for a clean finish.
Finally, tie a series of knots along this leader for adjustments.
Additional build details
Side edges
Crossing of leading edge and vertical spars
Lower wing tips
Sail center and leading edge
What’s next?
- Learn to Fly & STACK Figures — Check bridle symmetry, bungee tension and flat trim, then move on to launches, turns and reverse flight.
- The “revo” plans — Compare sizes (1, 1.5, 2, mini, indoor), wind ranges and feel using the plans to prep your next build.
- Context & credits — This step-by-step comes from the historical Revomania content, restored and translated.
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