Guardian is a passionate French kiteflier. He made his first quad line kite in 2014 and then shared this first experience on the French-speaking Aufilduvent forum. We invite you to rediscover this rich learning experience!
The rest was mainly written by Guardian in the first person. Thanks Guardian for sharing!
Foreword
I’d like to make it clear that I’m not presenting here a “guide” to making a Revolution kite, nor do I have the experience or pretension to do so. I’m simply sharing the method I used for my very first build, the things I tried, some successfully, others more hazardous. That’s why I use the past/first person singular (I cut, I sewed…) and not the present/second person plural (cut, glue…).
Some forum members asked me for feedback with photos, so I decided to make this little article.
At the end of this article, I explained some basic sewing notions.
My objective was to make a ventilated quad line kite, size 1.5, in Icarex with a curved leading edge.
Until now, I’d had a polokite UL, perfect from 9 to 15km/h of wind (and usable more widely from 6 to 18km/h). So I needed a ventilated model to be able to fly in stronger winds, in excess of 20km/h. The idea was to copy the dimensions of my Polokite, but add mesh like a Barresi serie kite. Los Hermanos’ production of the Polokite was of excellent quality, so it seemed a good “study” base. Besides, I’d never have succeeded with this project if I hadn’t had a model to copy…
I wanted to make this Rev with a curved leading edge, and the lines woven into the Polokite’s Icarex allowed me to measure this curvature.
By building the same size Rev (1.5), I could also make a new sail, without buying new carbon.
The cost of ordering the materials was around 90€. On top of that, I bought tools from DIY and graphic arts stores, Microtex needles, a book on sewing…
I started by experimenting with paneling on (word-processing) software, to test colors and shapes.
I read a lot on the forums (for kitefliers and seamstresses), asked questions on the “Au Fil du vent” forum, and off I went.
Thanks to the forum members who welcomed, helped or encouraged me: nicoger, DID92, marcel66, Michel en papier, Brunodu59, souris, F1, Barou, berni974, belote13, Yves, christof.
To practice with the sewing machine, I first made the kite cover, in Spi CX2. It was a good exercise for me, as I’d never sewn before.
Step 1: Measurements
I started by taking all the measurements of my Polokite 1.5, as this was the model I wanted to reproduce. This was a rather long step, not least because I wanted to reproduce a curved leading edge. For the curvature measurements, I used the lines woven into the Icarex, and took measurements every 20 cm along the leading edge.
I also analyzed the assembly “from every angle”: the leading edge is connected to the sail by a “folded seam”, and the trailing edge hems are doubled.
Throughout the project, I went back and forth to the Polokite to check that I was going in the right direction.
Tools: tape measure, ruler, protractor.
Step 2: Making a “Master” pattern
The idea was to first make a pattern that I could reuse for other Rev 1.5s in the future (a semi-ventilated one in particular). I drew it on a cardboard sheet bought in a graphic arts store (1 mm thick, but next time I’ll use thinner cardboard to make cutting easier). Of course, half a sheet is enough. I added a 20 mm seam allowance to the “finished” dimensions (I later regretted not having added 30 mm, I’ll explain why later).
Another advantage of keeping this “master” intact: I used it to place elements throughout the project to position, glue or regularly check that my assembly was correct.
Tools: 90 x 60 cm cutting board, 92 cm plasterboard ruler, wooden pencil, circular cutter.
Step 3: Making a pattern for this ventilated wing
I duplicated the pattern on another sheet of cardboard. I drew the paneling on it, and cut out each piece. Where elements overlapped, I made other pattern pieces from the first.
For each pattern piece, I indicated on each side whether a seam allowance was included or to be added.
This Rev will be symmetrical, so again half a sail is sufficient.
Tools: same as step 2.
Step 4: Tracing and cutting on Icarex and mesh
At first, I used a chalk criterium, but it wasn’t very precise. In the end, tracing with a wooden pencil worked well on Icarex. For the mesh, on the other hand, I used chalk. I tried out several cutting tools. I was satisfied with the rotary cutter. I used a precision knife for certain precise areas and angles.
Tools: 90 x 60 cm cutting board, 92 cm plasterboard ruler, wooden pencil, rotary cutter, precision knife, chalk criterium.
Step 5: Gluing
I used a stick of haberdashery “construction” glue, which worked very well on Icarex, but not so well on mesh or dacron. This glue didn’t clog my needle when sewing. I used the “master” pattern to position the pieces. Scotch tape helped hold the pieces together for gluing and drying. First, the Icarex was glued, and once dry, I glued and taped the mesh. Once the first wing was glued, I sewed it on, then glued on the 2nd wing, which I sewed on.
Step 6: Sewing the sail
After several sewing trials on scraps (setting stitches, adjusting tension for each stitch…), I attacked the stitching of the sail with a zig-zag stitch. After sewing, I checked my sail on the “master” pattern and realized I was missing 5 mm on my side seam allowance. Ouch. But they were there before sewing, and my panels did not come unstuck during sewing… What happened to those 5 mm?
The seam puckered the fabric very slightly, as I can’t reduce the pressure of the presser foot on my machine, and the needle thread tension was perhaps a little too strong. Next time, I’ll lower the tension a bit, and set a 30mm seam allowance, trimming to 20mm after sewing.
Apart from that, the result is good, the 2 wings are symmetrical. That’s a relief.
For these seams, I used a Microtex 70 needle and 3-stitch zig-zag seams. I explain sewing notions at the bottom of the page.
Step 7: Making the leading edge
I cut 3 strips of mesh (one for the center and two for the ends). The mesh connections will be hidden under the dacron strips where the top vertical ends are attached (so no need to have a 2m40 long mesh strip). For each end piece, I pre-stitched a vertical strip of dacron (folded in 2), which will receive the bungees for the leading edge end pieces. I used clothespins to pre-assemble these 3 strips of mesh with the dacron. Two vertical strips of dacron are added over the leading edge, to receive the bungees for the vertical rods. I opted for a wave-shaped stitch as on my Revopolo. This leading edge is deliberately longer than its final length, so I’ll cut it off later after attaching it to the sail.
After assembly, I evened out the mesh along its entire length, to give a visible 40 mm. Again, this is something I’ll do differently in the future, leaving more margin and levelling out later, I’ll talk about that later.
For these seams, I used a Microtex 80 needle, as the fabrics are thicker than Icarex.
Step 8: Assembling the leading edge to the sail
The center of the leading edge and the sail were aligned. Now it was time to start the famous “folded seam”. To relieve my machine and my needle, I first cut 10 mm off one of the two layers of dacron on the 4 vertical strips (so I’ll only have 3 layers of dacron instead of 4 in the folded seam, this is the “gradient” technique – see the seams section at the bottom of the page). I positioned the leading edge on the sail “right sides together” with the edges aligned (image above), pinned like a seamstress to make a straight stitch 20 mm from the edge, this is the first step of the folded seam. I still had a little problem with the length, because despite the fact that my machine has double drive, I had a difference of almost 5 mm at the end of the 2.40-meter seam (a well-known problem for quilters). Fortunately, I made the leading edge longer than expected. So no big deal, I hope to do better next time. To avoid this, I’ll sew in 2 batches, starting from the center each time. In the meantime, for this one, I’m redefining the new center of the leading edge with chalk.
Then I pre-folded 10 mm from the edge and finally folded over and stitched. Once done, I trimmed the ends of the leading edge, and “cauterized” with a soldering iron fitted with a flat tip.
Another thing I’ll improve: instead of trimming the leading edge mesh and the top of the sail before the straight stitching, I’ll leave an extra 10mm margin, and once the straight stitching is done, I’ll even out the whole thing to 20mm, then trim the thicknesses.
For these seams, I again used the Microtex 80 needle.
Step 9: Adding dacron reinforcements to the sail
2 triangles of dacron are straight-stitched to the upper surface, at the wing tips. Earlier, I embroidered a little text on these triangles with orange thread, just for fun.
After sewing the first one onto the sail, I noticed that the back of the orange thread embroidery was showing through on the right side of the kite, which wasn’t very pretty. I should have used a black bobbin thread. For the second triangle, which is already embroidered, I corrected with a felt-tip pen to blacken the bobbin thread, and the result is better.
I also added a chevron-shaped reinforcement in the center of the wing. I don’t know what material is used on the real Rev, so I added a piece of dacron, itself joined to a piece of woven mylar.
For these seams, I used a Microtex 70 needle.
Step 10: Double hems
Each side of trailing edge is folded and glued, twice.
For the sides, where I was missing 5 mm of margin (remember step 5), the first fold is reduced by this width, so that the hem still visually measures 10 mm when folded a second time. If you look closely, you’ll be able to make out something.
Last comment on the hems: they cover the triangular reinforcements at the bottom of the wings, but it’s not very pretty. Next time, I may pass the hem under the dacron triangle (reversing steps 9 and 10).
I used a Microtex 70 needle for these seams.
Step 11: Fixing the end caps
I drilled the holes with a soldering iron (pointed tip). Then I reinforced with a straight stitch on both sides of the holes (not yet done on the photo above). I didn’t have the cup washers that hold the bungee knots, so I found a solution with buttons, worked with a Dremel.
Step 12: The bridle
This was the hardest part for me. No matter how patient I am, doing this bridle almost drove me crazy!
I’d bought 7 m of sheathed bridle (Dyneema 65kg) because the pre-wired Revolution bridles are 3 times more expensive. First, I tied the vertical bridles, trying to start the knots from one end, but I found that it was easier to start from the center. Then I made the horizontal bridle starting from the center. It took me almost a day to make this bridle…. so, in hindsight, why not buy some pre-tied bridles?
Summary
This build was a challenge and I succeeded, I’m happy. It flies really well, and apart from some puckering due to too much thread tension, it looks good.
It took me about 55 hours to make this kite, bearing in mind that I’m rather reflective and therefore a bit slow…
The next one (because there will be a next one) will be a semi-ventilated one. I choose to keep the same paneling to make the pattern “profitable”. Some of the work done on the first one won’t have to be redone: measuring the Polokite, making the patterns… Above all, I’ll be able to go faster, because I’ll have more experience. So I’m hoping to do the next one in about thirty hours. Although…
Maybe I’ll try a nerf-de-chute on the trailing edge, a new challenge… who knows how long it’ll take…
The list of materials used for this kite
Prices correspond to 2014 prices in France.
| Quantity | Name | Description | Price / Unit | Subtotal |
| 1 | Spinnaker CX2 (42 g) | For the cover, color: gold (orange-yellow), width 135 cm | 7,90 € | 7,90 € |
| 1 | Icarex PC31 (31 g), by the meter | Color: black (402034), width 140 cm | 16,00 € | 16,00 € |
| 1 | Icarex PC31 (31 g), by the meter | Color: gold (402038), width 140 cm | 16,00 € | 16,00 € |
| 4 | Dacron, by the meter | Color: black, width 6cm | 1,30 € | 5,20 € |
| 1 | Screened Mylar (75 g), by the meter | 10 cm wide | 3,00 € | 3,00 € |
| 1 | Mesh, by the meter | Color: black, width 150 cm | 9,00 € | 9,00 € |
| 1 | Sewing thread (Serafil 80) | Color: black, 800 m spool | 7,00 € | 7,00 € |
| 1 | Revolution tip kit | 2 vertical end caps per kit | 7,00 € | 7,00 € |
| 2 | Revolution endcap kit | 2 bottom vertical end caps per kit | 7,00 € | 14,00 € |
| 7 | Sheathed dyneema bridle (65 kg), by the metre | Color: black | 0,70 € | 4,90 € |
Some technical information on sewing
The thread
Depending on the fabric, we choose a thread. The finer the fabric, the finer the thread. I used Serafil 80 (polyester thread from the AMANN group), which is widely used in kite building.
The larger the number on the thread, the finer the thread. Haberdashery threads are thicker, usually 40 or 50.
Needles
Needle selection depends on fabric and thread. To facilitate sewing in the Icarex, I used “Microtex” needles. They have a very sharp tip for stitching in fine microfiber fabrics. Gauge 70 for thin fabrics (panelling, hems), gauge 80 for the leading edge. In the absence of Microtex needles, it is possible to use special Denim needles (jeans) whose tip is sharper than a universal needle (but less so than a Microtex).
The larger the number on the needle, the wider the needle (expressed in hundredths of a mm). So a 70-gauge needle (0.7mm wide) is thinner than a 100-gauge needle (1mm wide). Please note that Serafil 80 is not compatible with 60-gauge needles.
Bobbin thread tension
It’s essential to set your machine correctly to get a good seam. I started by adjusting the bobbin tension using the yo-yo technique (you gently throw the bobbin case while holding the thread, like a yo-yo), and the bobbin should slowly descend a few centimetres. If the bobbin doesn’t come down, there’s too much tension and you need to loosen it slightly. If the bobbin descends too far, tighten slightly. The screw should be tightened gradually, in 1/8th turns. For very fine fabric, it’s best to lower the bobbin tension a little.
Needle thread tension
This kite contained three different stitches (zig-zag stitch, straight stitch and wave stitch). For each of these stitches, I experimented with scraps (the right number of thicknesses, the right needle) and set the right tension. It’s particularly difficult to set the tension on very thin fabric. I used a magnifying glass to see exactly where the stitch was knotting. Each stitch required a different tension. Luckily, I was able to record each customized stitch, as my electronic machine allows this. Generally, you need to lower the needle thread tension on thin fabrics. Next time I’ll lower the tension of my zig-zag stitch a little, to try to eliminate gathers.
Presser foot pressure
Unfortunately, my machine doesn’t allow you to change the pressure of the presser foot. Generally, presser foot pressure is reduced on thin fabrics. If the fabric puckers after sewing, it’s because the thread tension or presser foot pressure is too high.
Double drive
Most machines have a single drive, where the fabric is fed through the bottom gripper. With double drive, an additional gripper drives the fabric from above, ensuring that the top and bottom fabrics are fed at the same speed. The Icarex slides a lot, so it’s an interesting feature. But it doesn’t avoid all problems on long seams (the 2m35 of the leading edge).
The folded seam
This assembly has the advantage of being both solid and cleanly finished. There are several ways to do it. I proceeded as follows:
- Place the 2 pieces right sides together
- Stitch with a straight stitch 20 mm from the edge
- First fold in the seam allowance to 10 mm.
- Fold over, i.e. fold the seam allowance a second time
- Open the seam
- Stitch a second seam in the flap
It is also possible to open the seam as soon as the first stitching is completed.
It’s also possible to shorten the seam margins in a “staircase” or “gradient” pattern, so that the innermost part is shorter, making folding easier and reducing the thickness of the flap. I used this technique only on the 4 vertical strips of dacron, after stitching with a straight stitch.
Documentation
I recommend a website and a book to help you better understand and use your sewing machine:
A site http://machinesacoudre.over-blog.org/articles-blog.html a real “gold mine” for understanding how a machine works, its mechanism, how to maintain and adjust it. The site is sometimes a bit “cluttered”, but in the end, everything is very well explained.
A French book “Guide de Couture à la Machine à Coudre” by Christelle Beneytout, Editions Eyrolles, 2014. This book reviews all the functions of a machine, and gives good advice on adapting your machine to your project. It’s not a book to learn how to make clothes, but to learn how to use your machine and its accessories (choice of presser foot, needle, thread…).
And next
Guardian went on to build two more kites: a semi-ventilated one and an extra-ventilated one. These 2 other constructions took him a total of 44 hours.
Here are the characteristics of Guardian’s kites:
- Polokite UL
- Equipped with Race Rods Black leading edge and P1X verticals
- Total weight: 180 g
- Semi-ventilated home-made
- Equipped with 2-wrap leading edge and P2X whorls
- Total weight: 210 g
- In-house ventilated
- Equipped with 3-wrap leading edge and P3X whorls
- Weight: 228 g
- Extra-ventilated
- Equipped with 3-wrap leading edge and P3X whorls
- Weight: 242 g
After these builds, Guardian found that there wasn’t enough difference between his orange ventilated and his red extra-ventilated. In fact, he thought his red extra-ventilated could handle winds in excess of 40 km/h, but in fact it couldn’t. So he decided to convert his orange extra-ventilated to a red extra-ventilated. So he decided to convert part of the mesh center of his red kite into mesh.
Guardian also calculated the mesh radio on his kites and some commercial kites:
- A Rev 1.5 sail measures approximately 0.98 m2 (I’m not taking into account the leading edge)
- The yellow semi-ventilated kite is equipped with 12% mesh.
- A Barresi semi-ventilated series: 14% mesh
- Gold ventilated with 20% mesh
- The extra-ventilated red is currently fitted with 32% mesh.
- Ventilated Polokite: 35%
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Also worth reading
- The original Aufilduvent page where Guardian gives this feedback
- Kite plans and construction techniques
- Building your rev 1.5 by Yves Ganne
- Building a quad line kite by Polo Kites