Yves Ganne wrote this tutorial with Addict Kite in 2016 for kitefliers building for the first time or looking for tips and tricks. At Yves’ request, we’ve re-read and revisited some passages for greater clarity. Thanks again Yves for sharing! Thanks also to Addict Kite, without whom this tutorial would not exist.
We advise you to read the entire tutorial once before you start. Don’t hesitate to look at the photos in detail. This tutorial includes over 100 photos!
Note: We have just translated this page via Deepl. The article may contain a few translation errors. We are currently adjusting the translations. Thank you for your understanding!
Who is Yves Ganne?
Yves has built over 250 quad line kites since 2016. His kites are known for their artistic side! His sails are true works of art. We invite you to visit his Facebook profile to discover them and why not order one from him!
The explanations on this page were written by Yves in the first person.
The plans
Here are the full-size plans (in PDF format):
Yves explains in the following sections how to draw these plans by hand.
Finding the materials
To get you off to a good start (and keep you going…!), here are a few points to bear in mind: building a quad line doesn’t present any major difficulties, but you still need to be a bit handy, patient and careful. And don’t forget that a quad line is big! You need to have a space of at least 2.50 m by 1 m (and be able to move around it!), and this occupation will take between 25 and 40 hours of work, depending on the paneling chosen. If you’ve got a workshop, no problem, but if it’s the dining room… I’d like to take this opportunity to remind you that abandoning dogs, cats, rabbits and other pet turtles on the side of the freeway is strictly forbidden. Women and children too.
You’ll also need some materials. Here’s a list of the tools you’ll need (which you can add to as you wish) to draw, trace the plan, cut and glue the spinnaker and finally sew:
- For drawing: pencils, black permanent marker, felt-tip pens or colored pencils. If you want to go a little crazy and find THE paneling that suits you, the easiest way is to make a template 1/10th the size of your quad line. Then it’s easy to trace the outline, and draw and color as your imagination takes you.
- To draw the plan, I use white kraft paper (sold on rolls) that I unroll in my dining room. This way, I can rewind it when I decide to stop. A 2 m x 2.5 cm aluminum ruler, a 1 m x 1 cm aluminum ruler, a permanent felt-tip pen with medium tip (3 mm), a triple tape measure, a pencil.
- To cut the spinnaker: a cutter (wide blade) and spare blades. It is imperative to always have a nickel cutting edge. A pair of scissors reserved EXCLUSIVELY for this purpose and for cutting the sewing thread, a pair of scissors for all other cuts and trims. A cutting support to be slid under the spinnaker for cutting with the cutter. Personally, I collect the dividers from milk and mineral water packs at the local supermarket, as they need to be changed quite often. Otherwise, 3 mm thick Isorel panel with a surface area of 1 m x 0.80 m.
- For gluing, I’ve tried lots of adhesives. I’ve chosen 3. Fabric glue (hem): average adhesion on spinnaker, but sufficient for our purposes. Cyano gel 5 glue sticks well, but you can’t shake it, because if you smudge it… it’ll stay a smudge! It’s impossible to remove without stripping the spinnaker, so it’s better to leave it alone. And finally, glue for rigid PVC (good bonding, and if it burrs, you can remove it with a damp cotton swab). Note: gluing only allows you to assemble the spinnaker panels, but does not dispense with sewing.
- For sewing, a sewing machine, except for Penelope, is essential. A machine that can do 3-stitch zigzag.
Once you’ve acquired all this materials, it’s time to get serious!
Laying out the sail
The first thing to do is to lay out your quad line. Nothing could be simpler. Just unroll 2.50 m of white Kraft paper, grab your rulers (you’ll need both rulers, unless of course you have a 2.50 m ruler), a pencil and a black felt-tip pen (3 mm marker).
1) Draw a rectangle measuring 225 cm x 70.5 cm (note: this plan does not take into account the strip of mesh or the leading edge, which will be added to this plan later. This plan therefore represents ONLY the spinnaker surface: the paneling).
2) Divide this rectangle in two (bisector).
3) Draw a marker on the long side (bottom of the plan) 29.7 cm from each right angle.
4) Draw a mark on the median (top side) at 22 cm.
5) Connect the marks to the upper right angles using the 3 mm marker.
That’s it! Well, almost, because now you’ll need to use the 1 m ruler and a 1 mm felt-tip pen to draw 2 parallel lines around the silhouette of the quad line. The second line indicates the limit of the spinnaker. As the first silhouette is the surface of the quad line hemmed, the outer two centimetres will be used to build the hems.
Next step: the real thing!
Cutting the spinnaker panels
1) Draw your paneling with a pencil (in case you miss!), then a 3 mm felt-tip pen.
2) Lay out the spinnaker according to the colors you’ve chosen. Secure the spinnaker with magazines (a large support surface or anything heavy and wide).
3) Trace the panels on the spinnaker, following the outline of the transparent plan, using a pencil (e.g. a sharp carpenter’s pencil).
4) Position the ruler firmly (the spinnaker slides!).
5) Trace, check, cut (don’t hesitate to renew the cutter blade), position.
6) And so on for each panel, which I glue together as soon as possible.
ATTENTION: dark panels are positioned ABOVE light panels. For light panels, use the 1 m ruler to make the outline of the plan +1 cm. As an example (see photo), the light green panel coincides with the outline of the plan, except at the edge of the dark green panel, which will stick to it. At this boundary, the light green will hug the plan +1 cm.
And off you go!
I almost forgot! Before the leading edge (L.E.), a little sewing ….
Sewing the sail
So, sewing… What can I say about sewing? You need a machine, plug it into the mains and check the voltage (220 v). What else can I say? There really isn’t much to say about sewing. Oh, yes, there is! A 70 mm needle and thread. You need thread, that’s for sure! Serafil N° 80 is the best. I’ve tried others, and this is REALLY the best.
You’ll need to make sure the bobbin is full regularly. Basically, that’s what sewing’s all about: filling and emptying cans while keeping your eye clear and your foot light to make a nice, straight zigzag stitch. Read your machine’s instructions to make sure you follow the correct thread path from spool to needle. Check thread tension. Test on a double thickness of spinnaker to make sure everything’s OK, and off you go! Oh yes, one more thing: sew on the right side (yes, I made a mistake once….) of the panel overlap, straight up, so that the outer apex of the stitch is flush with the edge of the panel.
And that’s all there is to it! The hardest part is threading the needle.
Making the leading edge
Note that the leading edge of all my rev (Revolutions) is straight. You need to be very careful when making the leading edge (L.E.). The flight quality of the rev, as well as its final appearance depends on the quality of the leading edge. No folds, no “pockets”, just a beautiful quad line. Don’t hesitate to check the sail’s ribs, especially the trailing edges, as often as necessary with the plan/work plan and the tape measure. And off we go in 14 steps, which I’ll try to keep short and to the point. The photos taken at each stage should make what I have to say easier to understand.
1) Position the sail on the plane facing you. Set it up properly.
2) Draw a straight line corresponding to the sail/mesh boundary, then a second line parallel to the first 1 cm above it (width of 1 m ruler).
3) Cut 5 strips of dacron 6 cm wide and 13.5 cm long.
4) Trace the marks on the sail (between the 2 lines) to glue the dacron reinforcements (see plan below).
5) Glue the dacron reinforcements. The edge of the reinforcement must be aligned and perpendicular to the top line (see photo below).
6) Cut strips of mesh using the 2 m and 1 m rulers. Place the 1 m ruler on the edge of the mesh. Position the 2 m ruler against the 1 m ruler. Wedge the 2 m. Remove the 1 m ruler. Draw two lines (one on each side of the 2m ruler). Position the 1m against the 2m. Cut. The result is a 4.5 cm strip with a line 1 cm from each edge (see photo). To draw the lines, I use a fine-tipped white concealer. It’s important that the lines are clearly visible. As the mesh is sold in 1 m widths, some seams will be necessary. Make them at the dacron reinforcements.
7) Glue the mesh strips in place, making sure the white line on the mesh coincides with the line corresponding to the limit of the sail. ATTENTION: the mesh is positioned OVER the dacron reinforcements (see photo). I reiterate that the mesh and dacron reinforcements are on top of the sail and oriented towards the trailing edge. No need to panic!
8) The trickiest part of the construction: sewing the mesh onto the sail once the glue has dried. Straight, wide stitch. The seam must follow the white line (that’s why it has to be clearly visible…). This seam must be PERFECTLY straight. And that’s no mean feat!
Once you’ve finished sewing, cut off the excess spinnaker from the mesh (see photo below).
9) Turn the mesh/dacron reinforcement upwards, following the straight seam (see photo below).
10) Glue the hem to the reverse side of the sail.
11) Cut 2.40 m of dacron.
12) Glue the mesh strip along the second white line on the dacron (see photo).
13) Fold the dacron strip in half to make a sheath. Fold the dacron reinforcements around it. Even out the reinforcements with the edge of the hem.
14) Zigzag-stitch the dacron sheath and hem.
AND that’s it! I’ve just reread this, which explains my sudden headache! I suggest you take a good look at the photos: it helps!
Making the trailing edge and associated reinforcements
Well, this quad line is starting to take shape! But it’s not finished yet!
Now it’s time to make the central reinforcement and the wing tip reinforcements. These reinforcements are essential. For the wingtips, not only will they protect the sail during landings, they will also hold the bungees that will tension the sail. These reinforcements will be glued and sewn to the trailing edge hems.
I suggest making two small patterns in lightweight cardboard. It’s easy to draw them, using the 1 m ruler (see photo below). Before gluing them, lay the sail out well, with the reverse side facing you, wedge it carefully and check the trailing edge ribs: symmetry is a must! Now is the time to do it, because after gluing, it’s too late!
Cut the spinnaker from the center of the quad line to the edge of the reinforcement (see photo). Make a 1st dry fold to mark the fold, glue in short lengths, fold along the 1st line, press, and so on for the other 3. Leave to dry. Make the second fold in the same way (see photo). Sew with a zigzag stitch flush with the hem (inside veil). For the hem at the leading edge, see photo, as it’s not easy to describe! (and then this morning, I got one of those flames!)
And now we have a good view of the sail. Next, I’ll describe how to make the holes, where to make them, and then some stories about bungees and bridles.
Installing connectors
You can buy end caps (e.g. from Cerf-volant service). But you can also make your own. They’re inexpensive and hold well! 1 cm dowels and heat-shrink tubing. Cut the pegs, leaving two grooves. The first for the bungee, the second for the bridle. Simple (see photo).
Holes: simple too. One tip, one pair of pliers. Heat the tip to red-hot and drill. The holes are located at the wing tip reinforcements, 1.5 cm from the edge and 3.5 cm from the tip. Make a hole on each side of the reinforcement (see photo). For the leading edge. At the ends, make two holes, one above the other 1.5 cm apart. These holes are at the level of the reinforcement (not at the level of the sleeve!). Then make a hole in the middle of each reinforcement (middle and mid-wing) as close as possible to the seam, so as not to prevent the leading edge (L.E.) carbon rods from sliding properly (see photo). Be careful not to burn the seams!
Cut 6 strands of bungee cord, 3 mm in diameter and 18 cm long. Tie a slipknot in the middle, slide in the stopper (1st groove) and rack to death. Do the same for the other 5 corks.
Cut 6 strands of 20 cm bridle. Tie a slip knot at one end and dead-bolt around the 2nd groove.
For these bridles (as for the bridle) I use Spectra 90 kg fishing line, which I have specially imported from China!
Pass the bungees through the sail area, insert a plastic washer (also from China! plasterboard washers, hole diameter 3 mm).
Tie figure-of-eight knots that will butt against the washer. Don’t overtighten the knots, as you’ll probably have to untie them to adjust the sail tension.
And now I realize I’ve forgotten one little detail! You need to make two parallel seams 2 mm above and below the holes in the wing tip reinforcements! Done (see photo).
Choosing carbon rods
It’s time to buy 8 mm carbon rods. I use P300 rods (example from Bilboquet kite store). I’ve never broken one, though I had a rough start. You need 5 rods: 3 for the leading edge and 2 for the verticals. Don’t forget the 2 internal connectors (ferrules) that go with them. The rods have to be cut to size: the verticals are 79.5 cm long. The leading-edge rods, 2 full rods outside 82.5 cm and a central one (which supports the internal fittings) 70.5 cm (excluding fittings).
To cut the rods, I use a very fine-toothed hacksaw and apply 2 or 3 turns of scotch tape at the cutting point. Watch out for splinters! Then I give it a quick clean-up with a file.
Then there’s the bridle, and that’s the bridle!
Making the bridle
First of all, good luck to you all! Because the bridle, how can I put it… It’s extremely uh… boring (!) to do. Well, personally, it’s not my favorite part of making a quad line kite. Especially since a quad line flies without a bridle. Yes, yes, I’ve tried. But there’s a major obstacle: the vertical rods, since the 4 pull points correspond to the ends of the vertical rods, take all the pressure and there’s a high risk of breaking, then tearing the sail. But it flies! But even though I’m very lazy, I do a bridle! Here’s how: I use a folding tape measure, because tape measures are just too much trouble!
Making the vertical bridles
I start with the 2 vertical bridles. (The horizontal bridle will be placed on top.)
I cut 1.20 m of bridle (Chinese Spectra in my case, see photo for dimensions and overview). Initially, “C” is about 30 cm long (at this stage, it doesn’t matter, but it’s not too short either!), the same for “G” where I retain 20 cm. Only 3 ribs are imperative: “G” = 26.5 cm, “E” = 2 cm, “F” = 50 cm and “H” = 6 cm. The small loop after “H” is only used to make the knot on which the lark’s head of the line will be locked. Its length is unimportant (not too long, though! between 1 and 2 cm), and it can also be used to adjust the length of “H”. To recap: 30 cm of bridle, a 2 cm loop with a single knot, a 2nd 7 cm loop (the knots eat up roughly 1 cm), 50 cm from the 1st knot, then a 3rd knot on the loop to make a 12 cm loop. Is that clear?! Because I wouldn’t do it twice! Yes, you have to do it twice! (see photo).
Note that “H” has no influence on the responsiveness of the bridle, but is very important for adjusting the brake line. DIY enthusiasts can make a knot ladder, but I find it simpler to stop at this dimension and make the knot ladder on the handle.
Making the horizontal bridle
Now for the horizontal bridle. I make it in one piece, starting with 3.30 m of bridle that I fold in half. Previously, I made the central bridle with 40 cm of bridle folded in half, which I pass through the central hole. I tie the 4 strands with a simple knot, not too tight as it will have to be untied to adjust the dimension to 9 cm. I do this to try to limit wear on the dacron of the L.E. You can leave the central bridle untouched, but I’m afraid, perhaps wrongly, that a single strand might be too “sharp”. I pass the loop of the central bridle through the loop formed by the horizontal bridle folded in half, then the two ends of the latter through the loop of the central bridle (see photo!) Then I tie a simple knot to obtain the 9 cm dimension (you can adjust by tightening/loosening the central bridle). Then I make my “I” loop at 73.5 cm. To make “I”, I make a 13/13.5 cm loop, then another small loop so that “I” is 12 cm. That’s it! Next, simply assemble the vertical bridles by passing them through the slip knots made at the end of the “pre-bridle” already in place on the plugs, pulling the protruding bridle to the desired rib using the folding rule. Ditto for the horizontal bridle. I make my quad line bridles unmounted. I find it easier to assemble them afterwards.
All that’s left to do is to secure the horizontal bridle to the vertical ones. Simply pass the small “E” loop through the “I” loop, then pass the “I” back through the “E” loop (see photo!). pull and voilà, the turbo is done and the bridle finished!
All that’s left to do is clean up! In other words, stop the knots. To do this, turn the sail upside down and face you, pull on the thread, a small loop forms, pull gently with the tip of the chisel passed through this loop, and then, miracle, the thread which was behind (i.e. at the front of the sail) passes in front, i.e. at the back of the sail! All that’s left to do is tie with 2/3 single knots. If there are visible traces of pencil on the spot, it’s best to leave them… You can try a little water on a sponge and washing-up liquid, but often, trying to do too much makes things worse… If you’re worried about traces of glue, a little acetone on a cotton bud might work, but you have to be careful not to strip the spinnaker. IT’S FINISHED! Happy flying!
A few remarks
To make your 1st quad line, I recommend using Icarex spinnaker, which although much more expensive, is much easier to work with, as it holds well and is easy to cut with a cutter. When it comes to paneling (design), don’t lose sight of the fact that, unlike a canvas that can be seen from 2 m away, a quad line can be seen from 15 to 30 m away. In other words, a 2 cm detail can’t be seen (and neither can a pencil line!). When designing the paneling, don’t forget two important things: the vertical rods can be seen through transparency and can therefore “break” the design, and a flying quad line can be deformed by pressure: straight lines can become curved….
Glue… I’ve tried a lot… With all of them, you have to be meticulous and even stingy. PVC glue is fine, but dries very quickly: you have to work in short lengths. I’ve never tested it on Icarex, but it tends to “soften” some spinnakers, which doesn’t make paneling any easier. Fabric glue sticks the spinnaker less well than PVC, but doesn’t have this drawback.
The thread: I’m repeating myself, but Serafil N° 80 is the best. Don’t hesitate to try sewing: thread tension (spool and bobbin) is very important.
The plan: tracing your plan with a felt-tip pen on white kraft paper works very well. Don’t fold it, but roll it (like the spinnaker or icarex).
I’m always happy to exchange tips and advice.
Thanks
I’d like to thank Damien Grosclaude for trusting me, and enabling me to carry out this step-by-step.
I’d also like to thank the forum members of the Bilboquet forum. Without them, I’d never have had the idea or the opportunity to build quad lines.
A huge thank you to POLO, with whom I spent many long hours without ever having met him, thanks to his step-by-step photo album: Build a quad line kites by Polo Kites. About Polo: beware! Polo authorizes the use of his “step by step” (I know it by heart!) to help everyone build a quad line, but certainly not to copy his paneling (registered design). So, even if the temptation is great (the most beautiful quad line kite is Polo’s kite!), don’t touch!
I’d like to thank Zorglub 42, whom I’ve also read a lot! And also Punk sportif, who taught me how to fly in quad lines thanks to his advice on the Bilboquet forum (I drank cans of it to his health!).
I’d like to thank Souris for his warm welcome on the phone, as he really helped me to take the next step: painting on SPI!
I’m also thinking of Henri, Fow, Christophe and Laetitia (their CVs are magnificent!), Kalamical…
Well, I’m risking a dangerous exercise here, as I’m sure I’m going to forget a few, so please excuse me, they’re bound to be there!
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