Build an Essentials 4-line kite

The Essentials are full-size Hadzicki Wing quad-line kites, close to a Revolution 1.5. Spence Watson presents them as durable, high-performance sails that can handle regular flying and competition use. The plans cover several ventilation levels: standard, semi-vented, vented, and extra-vented (sizes S, V, XV, and XXV).

This page gathers the materials, tools, plans, and bridle and frame notes. The Build the sail section adapts Watty’s written instructions for the standard S sail. If you would rather buy than build, Spence takes orders in his shop.

This tutorial is distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License. You are free to use it as long as you don’t use it for commercial purposes.

Various examples are available on the Spence’s website.

For building an Essentials, Watty lists:

• 2 yards of Icarex, about 1.83 m. Another ripstop can substitute, but Watty highly recommends Icarex, and suggests including a bit of black for the strips at the back of the leading-edge mesh;
• 4 yards of 2-inch, 3.9 oz Dacron, about 3.66 m of 5.1 cm tape;
• 1 yard of 4-inch, 3.9 oz Dacron, about 91 cm of 10.2 cm tape;
• 1 yard of mylar, about 91 cm, with Dacron as a possible substitute;
• 1 yard of crinoline, about 91 cm;
• 1 yard of screen-door mesh, about 91 cm;
• 1/4-inch double-sided tape, about 6 mm;
• bonded polyester thread, which Watty finds works best when sewing through tape;
• bungee cord;
• 2 closed caps and 2 open caps for a quad-line kite;
• 2 quad-line T fittings (the caps and fittings are 3D printed, see 3D printable kite parts);
• 2 small zip ties;
• 5 Skyshark P2X 31-inch spars, about 78.7 cm;
• 2 internal ferrules, 3.75 inches long for 0.24-inch spars, about 9.5 cm for 6.1 mm;
• 100 lb Spectra bridle line, about 45 kg;
• BSI Tire glue or equivalent CA tire glue.

Use the Watty Essentials page for supplier links and possible updates.

Watty recommends:

• a 48-inch metal ruler, about 122 cm, with metric and imperial markings;
• an 18-inch metal ruler, about 46 cm, with metric and imperial markings;
• a bone folder;
• a clear protractor;
• fabric scissors and thread scissors;
• hemostats and tweezers;
• a soldering iron;
• a lighter;
• a sewing machine capable of straight stitch, single-step zigzag, and multi-step zigzag;
• a walking foot if the machine does not already have one;
• universal 90/14 needles;
• aluminum tape;
• Ram Board or similar protective board;
• a threader tool;
• a mechanical pencil;
• sewing weights;
• a heat-resistant work surface, such as glass or metal;
• a Dremel with abrasive wheels;
• a mini cut-off saw;
• a face mask.

Here are the plans in PDF format:

• Essentials S, standard sail
  • Blueprint
  • Left wing only
• Essentials V, semi-vented sail
  • Blueprint
  • Left wing only
• Essentials XV, ventilated sail
  • Blueprint
  • Left wing only
• Essentials XXV, extra-vented sail
  • Blueprint
  • Left wing only
• Panel Templates

Watty recommends printing the XXV Blueprint and the Panel Templates at an office supply store, as blueprints, on 36 x 48-inch paper (about 91 x 122 cm), printed at actual size. The XXV Blueprint includes the lines from the other blueprints, so it can be reused for all variations of the kite.

Watty uses the 3-Wind French bridle for S and V sails, and a traditional bridle for XV and XXV sails.

• 3-Wind French bridle plan
• Traditional bridle plan

If you use Watty’s printed fittings, see the Watty Essentials page for the “Loopless Bridle” guides and the clove-hitch attachment to the caps.

The Essentials is a full-size Hadzicki Wing sail:

• 5 spars of 31 inches, about 78.7 cm;
• 2 internal ferrules;
• 1/4-inch spars, about 6.35 mm, with Skyshark P2X as Watty’s recommended reference.

The framing, T fittings, and bridle should be treated as one system. If you change the upper vertical rod position or the sail shape, check that the bridle still matches the resulting geometry.

On the blueprint, and then on two built Essentials, we found that the point where the vertical rods meet the leading edge sits about 5 cm farther outside than on a B-Series reference kite. The designer told us that this placement was not especially intentional: the sail became slightly taller to accommodate the T fittings, and the rod position may also have migrated as the plan illustration evolved. Our flying tests confirm that this geometry affects the kite’s flight.

Before cutting the sail, compare this position with your reference kite. If you want something closer to a classic quad-line layout, correct the blueprint by moving the top of the vertical rods inward. You then need to complete the sail shape for the resulting rod offset, and compensate the bridle lengths and attachment points.

The center of the sail also differs from the usual inverted V: the Essentials uses a shape closer to /‾\. The designer’s explanation is tied to the applique seam and the way it controls the trailing edge corners. Our view is neutral on this point, but if you want behavior closer to a classic quad-line kite, we would rather keep the original center V.

This section follows the written guide by Spence Watson (Watty), from cutting the panels to fitting the frame. It describes the standard S sail. Read the notes on the plan above first: they change what you mark on the sail in step 2.

It is an adaptation: we translated, reorganized and condensed Watty’s original Google Doc, converted measurements to metric, and added a cut list and a few notes. The photos are Watty’s, taken from the same guide. Notes from QuadKites.org are marked as such; everything else comes from the guide.

• The guide describes the Essentials S (standard sail). For V, XV and XXV, the blueprints show the vented areas, but the guide does not explain them.
• Dimensions are given in inches in the original. Metric equivalents are rounded.
• Read the whole guide before cutting. Practice stitches and hot-tacks on scraps first.
• Watty’s guide has a few inconsistent numbered cross-references between steps. This adaptation names the pieces instead of pointing to step numbers.

QuadKites.org note. Several steps use a hot soldering iron, spray adhesive, a Dremel and carbon rods. Work on glass or metal, ventilate when you spray adhesive, and wear a face mask when you cut carbon or clean dust out of a rod. Keep the soldering iron away from your fingers: in the hot-tack method, your finger and the iron tip are only a few millimeters apart.

Note which color goes in each panel before you cut.

1. Prepare a glass or metal surface large enough for each entire panel. Do all hot cutting on it.
2. Preheat the soldering iron to about 420 °C.
3. For each template, place it on the Icarex and line up the Icarex squares with the bias guide on the template. Hold it down with weights.
4. Run the iron around the template to cut the fabric underneath, then set the piece aside.

1. Place the blueprint on an illuminated glass table.
2. Spray a thin layer of spray adhesive on the blueprint and let it dry for a moment, in a well-ventilated area. Skip this if the blueprint is still tacky from earlier use.
3. Preheat the soldering iron. The guide says “~450” without a unit, and 420 °C for Option A. Test on a scrap and pick the temperature that cuts cleanly without charring.
4. Place a piece of Icarex over each panel so it covers it entirely and the Icarex squares line up with the bias signs.
5. Cut along the outer lines around the panel with the iron and a ruler. For curved panels, make short straight cuts to build the curve.

1. Place the blueprint on the illuminated table. You can spray it lightly with adhesive to make arranging easier.
2. Start with the right half of the kite, seen from the front. Lay the panels on the blueprint from the darkest to the lightest color. Leave the center panel for later.
3. Hold every seam with hot-tacks (preferred), blue tape or double-sided tape.
   • Hot-tack: press your finger firmly on the seam, quickly tap the tip of the hot iron right next to your finger, then press on the melted point as soon as the iron moves away so the layers stick together.
   • Blue tape: 2.5 cm pieces every 8 to 15 cm.
   • Double-sided tape: lift the top layer carefully and slide the tape between layers. A small weight can hold the top layer back.
4. Mark in pencil where the vertical reinforcement strips will go, and where the trailing-edge fold will be.
5. Lift the half sail off the blueprint, pulling on the fabric at the bottom to avoid breaking the hot-tacks.
6. Repeat for the left half, this time laying the lightest colors first, then the darker ones. Skip the center panel again.
7. Sew every seam of each half with a multi-step zigzag, about 6 mm wide. Remove blue tape as you go.

The stitch looks right when the zigzags make an angle of about 90° to 100°. For the length, Watty writes “15 gauge”, a setting we could not match to machine dials: judge it by the stitch shape and test on scraps. For machine setup, see Sew and finish the sail.

QuadKites.org note. The pencil marks for the vertical reinforcement strips fix the position of the vertical rods. Before marking, read our notes on vertical rod placement and center sail shape, and compare the blueprint with a reference kite.

Hot-cut these pieces from Dacron, mylar or Icarex. The blueprint and templates give the shaped pieces.

QuadKites.org note. Two figures deserve a check against the blueprint before you cut: the width of the mesh finishing strips (the guide says ¼ inch, while Watty’s materials list suggests 3/8 inch, about 1 cm), and the size of the center V strip, which looks small for a piece that is later folded to follow the trailing-edge angle.

Apply the wear strips on the back of the sail, the side where the lighter colors are on top.

1. Line up a vertical wear strip on a half sail using the pencil marks made when arranging the panels. The angled end sits flush with the leading-edge side.
2. Flip the strip over, apply double-sided tape and press it on the sail without creasing the Icarex.
3. Sew the strip with a multi-step zigzag along each long side.

4. Fold a Dacron wing-tip rhombus diagonally so it fits into the wing-tip triangle of the blueprint, and slide a mylar triangle between the folds. A bit of double-sided tape keeps it from sliding.
5. On one outer side of the folded Dacron, apply double-sided tape flush against the fold, and a second line parallel to it, about 2.5 cm lower.
6. Stick the folded Dacron against the trailing-edge fold line, not flush with the fabric edge.
7. Sew one line of stitching along each strip of tape. On dark Icarex, mark the tape position in pencil first.
8. Repeat everything for the other half sail.

1. Align one half on the illuminated blueprint, then align the center panel.
2. Layer the center panel above or below the half depending on color, always keeping darker colors toward the front of the sail.
3. Hold it with hot-tacks, blue tape or double-sided tape.
4. Mark the trailing-edge fold line on the center strip.
5. Sew the seam between the half and the center panel with the multi-step zigzag, without sewing below the trailing-edge fold line.
6. Do the same on the other side to join the two halves.

1. With the bone folder, fold the trailing edge toward the back of the sail so the raw edge reaches the fold line.
2. Fold again on the fold line. A bit of double-sided tape on the corners or on the center V can hold the folds.

3. Place double-sided tape around the center V on the trailing edge to stick the Dacron reinforcement.

4. Lay the sail flat and align the thin Dacron strip along the base of the center panel, horizontally centered.

5. Fold the upper side of the strip down on both sides so it matches the angle of the trailing edge, then stick it with double-sided tape.

6. Using a sewing guide, sew the whole trailing edge twice with a straight stitch about 2 mm long. The two lines are parallel: one near the inside edge of the hem, one near the edge of the sail.

1. Prepare 1¼-inch (3.2 cm) mesh strips for a total length of 95 inches (about 2.4 m). One long strip works, as do two strips of at least 42.5 inches (108 cm) or several strips no shorter than 16 inches (40 cm).
2. Fold each 2 × 2.5 inch Dacron reinforcement in half so it measures 1.25 inches. Apply double-sided tape to the long edges on the inside face.
3. Using the blueprint as a guide, stick the reinforcements on the mesh so they fold over it, always with the folded side on the same side of the strip. If you use several mesh lengths, these reinforcements join them.
4. Reinforce the ends of the mesh with the 4 × 1.25 inch pieces:
   1. Fold the piece in half lengthwise (2 × 1.25 inches), tape the cut 1.25-inch edge on the outside, then unfold it.
   2. Place it on the blueprint, tape facing up, with the top of the crease on the angled trailing-edge line.
   3. Remove the backing on the mesh side, press the mesh into the tape and trim the excess mesh.
   4. Fold the Dacron toward you along the angled line, fold it back along the crease, remove the remaining backing and fold the rest back so the mesh is sandwiched.
5. Sew the 1.25-inch edges of each reinforcement to the mesh with a 2-step zigzag, 3/16 inch (about 5 mm) wide and about 2 mm long. Leave the folded ends of the end reinforcements unsewn for now.
6. On the back of the sail, run double-sided tape flush along the leading edge.
7. Stick the reinforced mesh on the sail with a 6 mm overlap. Do not stretch the mesh, or the reinforcements will move out of place. Place the reinforcements on the sail first, then let the mesh fall into place.
8. Turn the sail over and apply a second line of double-sided tape along the top of the Icarex, where the mesh overlaps it.
9. Cover that tape with one thin Icarex strip, and tuck its ends into the end reinforcements.
10. Sew the seam between mesh and sail with the multi-step zigzag, mesh side up, including the remaining thin Icarex strips to cover the mesh.

QuadKites.org note. The guide says “mesh” here. Watty’s materials list has both crinoline and screen-door mesh without saying which goes where. Compare with one of his Essentials build logs before cutting.

1. Fold the 2 × 95 inch Dacron strip in half lengthwise to get a 1-inch (2.5 cm) folded strip.
2. On the back of the sail, run double-sided tape along the upper edge of the mesh.
3. Unfold the strip and stick it on that tape, leaving a few centimeters of extra Dacron past the edge of the sail.

4. Fold the extra Dacron back, away from the sail, at an angle matching the trailing edge. Unfold it, cut away the excess at 90° beyond the fold line, then fold it again.

5. While folded, align a protractor at the base of the leading edge, where it joins the mesh, against the start of the fold. Mark the opposite side of the 2-inch strip.
6. Mark the center of the strip on the fold.
7. Fold the Dacron to connect both marks. The end of the strip now has a pointed angle, with folded bits sticking out on the outside.

8. Repeat on the other end of the leading edge.
9. Apply double-sided tape on one edge of two 2 × 2 inch squares. Align them to cover the folded ends, fold them to match, and stick them with the loose folds facing each other.

10. Apply tape on two parallel edges of one face of the three remaining squares. Stick two just above the vertical wear strips, and one in the middle of the leading edge.
11. Hot-cut ½ × 1 inch (1.3 × 2.5 cm) rectangles in the leading edge at the end of the vertical wear strips, ¼ inch (6 mm) from where the leading-edge Dacron meets the mesh. They are the openings for the T fittings.
12. Sew the tips of the leading edge with two parallel straight lines. Sew all other edges of the reinforcements with a 2-step zigzag.

13. Fold the leading edge back over and sew it onto the sail with the multi-step zigzag.

Then burn the holes the frame and bridle will use. When you burn the 3 mm holes in the leading-edge pocket, push the hemostats in from the pocket opening and open the layers melted together: you must be able to poke the hemostats from inside the pocket out through the hole.

• A 3 mm hole along the leading-edge-to-mesh seam, 1.3 to 2.5 cm from the end of the leading edge, for the future bungees.
• Two 3 mm holes on each wing tip, between the horizontal stitches of the wing-tip reinforcement. Watty puts one on each seam of the wear strip.
• A small hole (1 to 2 mm) in the center of the leading edge, just above the seam, for a future bridle connection.
• Small holes (1 to 2 mm) on the front of the leading edge where the T-fitting openings are, so a bridle leg can go through the leading edge and attach to the frame.

Watty uses the 3-Wind French bridle on S sails. The marks named below (“6 cm loop”, “20 cm tow”, “1 cm knot”, “10 cm loop”) are those of his bridle plan.

1. Measure, mark and cut each leg, and lightly melt each cut end. Double the center leg and mirror your marks across the center.
2. For each short diamond piece, melt the ends into a solid bead and tie an overhand knot in the middle.
3. For each vertical piece:
   1. Tie a short overhand loop at the “6 cm loop” marks. The two marks come together just outside the overhand knot.
   2. Tie an overhand loop at the “20 cm tow” marks, with an extra overhand knot at the end of the loop.
4. Join the vertical and diamond pieces by larks-heading the 6 cm loop onto the center knot of the diamond.
5. For the horizontal leg:
   1. Tie an overhand knot at the first “1 cm knot” marks, inserting one diamond end into the knot before tightening. Pull the diamond through until the melted end stops it.
   2. Tie an overhand loop at the “20 cm tow” marks, with an extra overhand knot at the end of the loop.
   3. Tie an overhand knot at the next “1 cm knot” marks, inserting the other free end of the same diamond.
   4. Tie an overhand loop at the “10 cm loop” marks.
   5. Repeat for the other side of the horizontal leg.

You need five 31-inch (78.7 cm) rods. One of them is the center rod of the leading edge: insert and glue an internal ferrule halfway into each end. Clean the inside of the rod first, so carbon dust does not make the glue fail.

1. Insert the hemostats into the leading-edge pocket and break through the melted holes.
2. Slide an endcap onto a length of bungee and melt the end.
3. Push the hemostats through one of the holes and use them to pull the bungee end into the hole and out of the end of the leading edge.
4. Measure roughly: loop the bungee with its endcap around the end of the pocket, back to the hole and out again. Cut and melt there, but be generous: too much is better than too little.
5. Use the hemostats to pull the new end through the hole on the other side.
6. Pull both ends out of the leading edge so the endcap sits comfortably against the edge of the sail. Zip-tie the two ends together very tightly.
7. Trim and melt the excess bungee, then pull on the endcap to draw the zip-tied end inside the leading edge.
8. Repeat on the other end of the leading edge.

1. Pass the top end of a vertical bridle leg (near the diamond) through the small hole at the T-fitting opening, from the front of the sail to the back.
2. Tie it to a T fitting through its opening with a clove hitch and an extra overhand knot at the end.
3. Repeat on the other side.
4. From one end of the leading edge, push the ferruled rod in, threading it through the T fitting, then follow it with a non-ferruled rod. The vertical part of the T fitting faces away from the center of the kite.
5. Push a non-ferruled rod in from the other end.
6. Attach each end of the horizontal bridle leg to the endcaps at the ends of the leading edge, with an overhand knot and a clove hitch in the groove on the outside of the cap.
7. Insert a vertical rod into the T fitting and pull the sail flat so the rod lies along the sail as it will once assembled.

1. Thread a length of bungee into an open endcap, from the rod opening to the bungee opening.
2. Push the bungee end through one of the holes of the bottom wing tip from the front, then back through the other hole from the back.
3. Thread the end back into the endcap, from the bungee opening to the rod opening.
4. Tie an overhand knot on the loose end that surrounds the other, uncut bungee end.
5. Pull the knotted end down through the endcap until the knot is near the cap opening, and adjust so the knot extends about 1 cm past the tip of the sail.
6. Cut the remaining bungee end with enough excess to tie a second overhand knot tightly against the first.
7. Trim the excess, melt the ends with a lighter and pull the bungee into the endcap, away from the bungee opening.
8. Put the vertical rod through the bungee loop on the back of the sail, then into the endcap.
9. Repeat on the other side.
10. Attach the bottom ends of the vertical bridle legs to the bottom endcaps like those of the horizontal leg: overhand knot and clove hitch in the groove of the cap.

The kite is done. Sign your work and go fly it, as Watty says.

• Spence Watson’s original build guide — the source of the step-by-step section above, with its own photos.
• Frame, connectors and bridle — other builders’ methods for the same steps.
• Essentials build log — Essentials built by Spence Watson, for inspiration.
• Watty Essentials page — source reference for supplier links, fitting notes, framing notes, and possible updates.
• KitePaint Colorizer — external tool for planning panel colors before cutting fabric.

• Mini Pulse: another project available in several venting levels, with a complete filmed build.
• Yves Ganne’s tutorial: a Rev 1.5 documented from start to finish with full-size plans.
• Punk Sportif’s tutorial: a complete historical method to compare with the Essentials geometry choices.
• Revomania plans and documentation: several Revo sizes and resources on the sail, frame, bridle, and handles.